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November 27-30th.

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Click HERE to shop Krug's Eco-Logic - where L o G i C ... meets Luxury

How To Make Soap

While making soap isn't difficult, you do have to take special safety precautions, be able to measure accurately, and be prepared to spend beaucoup denaro (i.e. cash) upfront to create your own recipes.

I will walk you through the basic process (start to finish), but before you try your hand at it, please read all you can about the specifics before delving into this craft. With a little time, patience, and money ... you can create something beautiful and useful!

PREPARE

Set out all of your materials you'll be needing .....

- butters/oils
-water/ice
-lye
-scale
-gloves and goggles
- molds/liners
-essential or fragrance oils
-colorants
-stick blender
-pots/bowls
-vinegar (for spills or accidents)
-pH strips

Colorants and Scenting

How you choose to color, scent, and create your soaps is entirely up to you. There are such a wide variety of fats, oils, butters, scenting options, and colorants available - this is where you get creative. Research each type, kind, brand, etc... and find out what's best for you. I chose all vegan and natural ingredients (no animal by-products of any kind, and only natural iron oxides for colorants). Use your search engine to find the multitude of suppliers. Buying scents and colorants from your local craft store will work, but are not near the quality of something you would purchase from a ingredient supplier.

SAP Calculator

The very first item on the agenda is plugging in some numbers into your SAPonification Calculator. You can find ones all over the internet. Soaper's Choice offers a great online version or you can download one into an excel program, like the one suggested at Miller's Soap.

Miller's Soap also has a great table illustrating the different properties and characteristics of oils or butters you may choose to add to your soap. You'll want to add some oils that create a hard bar, good lather, gentle for the skin ... this is where you can be scientifically creative.

Molds

Make sure that before you actually begin making the soap, you determine the total volume needed to fill the mold you will be using. You can find some calculations HERE . You want to make sure you have a good sized soap bar, so some calculation and planning is key. Make sure to line your mold (if the one your make/purchase is not lined) with either a garbage bag that you've positioned to 'hug' the edges and corners, or freezer paper.

Measure Oils/Butters/Fats

All measurements MUST be extremely accurate (especially when working in small batches). Use a digital scale that measures to the hundredth of an ounce (at least). Measure each type of oil/butter as you have pre-determined using your SAP calculator. I use a large stainless steel pot and place on a burner. I melt them on low heat so they don't heat too quickly and burn, and also, so that as soon as they're totally melted they're the perfect temperature to soap!

Some soapers choose to accurately measure the temperature of their oils. I did do this in the beginning but found it much easier to heat the oils on low heat, and as they just finish melting - they're the perfect temperature (about 105-110 degrees F if you choose to measure).

Lye/Water

Next, measure out the volume of water as you've accurately calculated using your SAP calculator. When I measure out my liquid (other soaping liquids can include - milk, goat's milk, coconut milk, beer, wine, etc..), I make HALF of the volume frozen. For example, if my total volume of liquid is 20 oz, 10 of those oz would be frozen. When lye is mixed with water, it causes an exothermic reaction (produces heat). By using room temperature liquid, the solution will become so hot, you'll have to give it lots of time to cool. By freezing a portion of your liquid, you eliminate the waiting game.


Before you handle lye, PLEASE make sure to use proper safety apparel - gloves, goggles, shirt/jacket with long sleeves, pants, and foot coverings. Keep vinegar close by to neutralize any spills.

Next, use a clean DRY container to measure out your lye (only use 100% pure, technical grade lye). A few great companies include: Boyer or Camden-Grey .


SLOWLY pour your lye INTO the liquid (NEVER pour liquid into the lye). Gently stir as you pour the lye little-by-little into the liquid. If you're using a liquid other than water, please read up on how it may react with the lye (for ex: beer must be flat, otherwise it will bubble/volcano over your bowl when mixed with lye). You may even experience color changes of the liquid with lye (ex: agave nectar turns a multitude of colors as it's mixed with the sodium hydroxide).

Once the sodium hydroxide is carefully mixed into the liquid (if you've used about half the liquid volume in it's frozen form), it should be the perfect temperature to mix with the oils/fats (again, around 100-110 degrees).

Begin Saponification

Plug your stick blender in and immerse it into the melted oils/butters. I give it a few quick whirls to ensure the melted oils are blended evenly together. CAREFULLY and SLOWLY with gloved hands, and goggled eyes, pour the lye/liquid mixture into the melted oils. Begin blending with your stick blender. It shouldn't take very long (anywhere from 1 minute to 10 depending on the types of oils you used and the temperature of the mixture) until you reach a light " trace " . Trace is considered when you can dribble some of the liquid on the surface and you can see a 'trace' of where it has been.

When your mixture is at a very light trace you can add your colorants (if you are opting for a solid color), and your scenting oils (fragrance oils (synthetic) or essential oils (natural ) ). Please do you research on the amounts to be used and skin safety for anything you might add to your soaps.


Once your mixture reaches " trace ", it's time to pour it into your mold. Timing is crucial here - if you pour it too soon, it has the potential to separate. If you pour too late, the mixture will become hard in the pot and not pour nicely into the mold. Scenting oils often change the speed at which the mixture traces. Essential oils that are spicy (cinnamon, clove, etc..) often speed up the process so quickly, they always seize the mixture in the pot. When I use an oil that causes quick seizing, I actually pour the mixture into the mold FIRST, then add the scenting oil and blend it IN the mold. This way, when it seizes, it will solidify in the mold instead of in my pot.

Once you've poured your mixture into your mold ( you may choose to texture the tops as I do with a spoon) it is time to cover it and let it sit for about 24 hours. I always cover the lid and the sides of the mold with fleece blankets, towels, or anything that will hold in the heat of the chemical process. If too much heat escapes, it will not allow the soap to set up properly and you will end up with very, very soft soap. The saponification process creates it's own heat (exothermic reaction) but requires that heat to allow it to "gel", and thus producing the fabulous natural glycerin soap our skin loves!

Unmolding / Cutting

Once about 24 hours has passed, most likely, it is time to cut your soap. I always feel the outside of the mold first. If it's still warm, I let it sit until it's room temperature to ensure the process is complete. If it's totally cooled, I pull the soap log out of the mold. Every soaper has a different method of cutting their soaps (and sometimes it depends on the type of mold you use). I like to use a regular old chef's knife.

Curing & Testing

Most soaps need to sit for approximately 3-4 weeks before they are ready for use. This time allows the soap bars not only to harden (which will allow the bar a longer usage life), but to very slowly continue to saponify, thus becoming more gentle for your skin. I have small containers with lids I place my soaps in so that they're protected. I don't fully close the lids, though, allowing water to evaporate.

After about 3 weeks, I use a pH strip to ensure the product is skin safe. A suitable pH level is around 9-10 . Any higher than 10, and it becomes too harsh for your skin.

Final Product

AND YOU'RE DONE !! Once you become comfortable with the process, you can do some more creative things - swirls, adding multiple colors, and blending scents. Become comfortable with the process, and then let your imagination soar!

*** This is only a general guideline ... please research the process thoroughly before you begin. Intently read information about ingredients, their safety, and amounts BEFORE using. ***

And You Are ????

For those that follow my blog, I thought you might want to know a little about me.

I grew up in Altoona, PA (about two hours east of Pittsburgh). I always have had an interest in science. In high school I took all the science classes that were offered - microbiology, zoology, Advanced Placement Biology, etc.. I even took classes during the summer so I could fit in all my science electives. I just couldn't get enough! In highschool I participated in the band (playing the clarinet, mostly), and was the parade drum major. Ahhh.... lifetime of band memories!


I have two brothers - Matt and Mike. Matt is currently at Northwestern University studying to earn his pHD in Materials Engineering and Mike is currently at the University of Missoula Montana earning his Masters in Environmental Studies.

I went to college at Shippensburg University and earned my BS in Biology with certifications in General Science, Environmental Science, and Secondary Education. It was at Shippensburg that I began to develop an interest in distance running. On a day I will never, ever forget, my (then soon-to-be) coach (Steve Spence) stopped me while I was getting my run in for the day. He asked if I ran competitively before, and if I'd be interested in trying out for the team. I immediately thought he was looking for a date, but after some "googling" realized he was actually the coach! I ended up running cross country and distance track my fifth year of college - and it was one of the best decisions I have ever made! I ran in races all over PA, and our NCAA National Championship race in California - absolute best trip EVER!


I taught grades 6-12 for about 3 years before I had my first child. After I had him, I realized I did not want work full time and have someone else raise him all day. I soon took a job at a daycare as the director where I could work full time and still be with my young son. I am now a stay at home mom and absolutely LOVE it - my son's in first grade and my daughter is two years old. We still live in PA, but closer to Gettysburg, now.

After noticing (and struggling) with both of my childrens' sensitive skin issues, I started reading about natural products. I started making quick little recipes at home (olive oil rubs, etc..). But I realized that I could most likely make 'commercial'-like products, but with natural ingredients.

I started reading anything I could get my hands on (internet, library, amazon) and started ordering ingredients. After many failed batches of lotions and potions, I finally created my own unique recipes that I absolutely loved. Family and friends fell in love with them and encouraged me to sell.

So .... here I AM!

You can view my shop HERE and feel free to email me with any questions you might have!

Soothing Ribbons and Ultra Moisture?? REALLY?

You've seen all the commercials of big brand lotions claiming to be ultra-moisturizing and affordable. They do have it right, for the volume they sell in each bottle, it sure is affordable. But what REALLY are you buying? What about these ribbons, and ultra moisturizing ingredients. Are they really IN there? And if they are - how MUCH is in there? Let's check out one of the products we see in television ads continuously - Dove Nourishing Moisture Body Lotion (linked to Dove's Product).


There you will see what it claims: to immediately soften skin's surface, then dig deep to moisturizes within, and continue to nourish for 24 hours.

Now, let's take a look at the ingredients. Keep in mind, we don't know specific amounts of each item, but we do know that the items must be listed by their amounts (greatest to least):

Water - this is the main component in any lotion

Glycerin - humectant (drawing water from the air, to the skin) .... though we're not sure of what origin this glyercin is from - could be animal or vegetable fats.

Cyclopentasiloxane - synthetic emollient (softens the skin), and may cause mild skin irritations/rashes. Some evidence has shown that it may disrupt marine life.

Stearic Acid - used as an emulsifier (binding oil and water) - unsure of it's origin here (vegetable or animal)

Caprilic Triglyceride - characteristic of an indefinite shelf life, this synthetic emollient is found in many lotions. It provides the skin with a slippery, silky feel.

Glycerol Stearate - naturally derived fatty acid, used as an emulsifier in lotions (could be of plant, animal, or mechanically synthesized origins)

Carbomer - synthetic polymer used to thicken emulsions or to help suspend particles in solution

Dimethiconol - a synthetic silicon ingredient used to make emulsion 'spreadable', and give a glossy/silky feel

Fragrance - synthetic scenting oils, have been known to cause irritation in some individuals (this is dependent on individual, quality of fragrance, and amount used).
** please note - some individuals' skin is too sensitive for natural scenting oils **

Sodium Hydroxide - also known as "lye" - a caustic, basic (high pH) substance that can be used to turn fats into soap (known as 'cold process' soap making). In this particular emulsion, it's most likely added to adjust the pH of the solution. This is an ingredient I (personally) would never, ever add to any product you'd leave on your skin, and would only use it if it's changed in a chemical process (i.e. cold process soap making).

Phenoxyethanol a synthetic preservative, about which the FDA (at one point) issued a 'consumer warning'. Studies have shown chromosomal damage in low to moderate dosages.

Methylparaben and Propylparaben - synthetic preservatives that have been shown in some studies (not all) to increase the potential for cancer

Disodium EDTA - it's possible uses are as follows: synthetic preservative, stabilizer, penetration agent (allows other substances to penetrate skin increasing amounts of other ingredients that will enter the blood stream), and has been shown to have been cytotoxic and genotoxic in laboratory studies, some have shown moderate mutant abilities, while other studies have shown only mild mutant abilities. The FDA has this chemical approved for usage in food, and cosmetics.

Titanium Dioxide - Natural whitening agent with slight sunlight protective abilities

In summary - this particular lotion does have ingredients who's properties allow your skin to immediately feel smooth and 'hydrated'. However, the ingredients used here to impart such a feel are all synthetic. By using these big box products you are slathering loads of synthetics over your skin.

So what's the bottom line??? The bottom line is, this is just one product out there that's claiming to be ultra-good for your skin, and at a fantastic value. Yes... it is affordable, but will you be purchasing other products to sooth your dried skin despite using 'big-box' store lotion? Will you be visiting the dermatologist in hopes of healing your dried and cracked hands?

We make very conscious decisions about the food we put in our mouths. We hear continuously about trans-fats, carbs, calories, and serving sizes. Yet, we often quickly overlook what exactly we're putting ON ourselves - on our very largest organ. If you shouldn't eat it, you probably shouldn't be putting it on your skin.

While it is absolutely necessary to preserve aqueous solutions that will be sitting in a closet or on a shelf for months at a time, there are preservatives that have been shown to be not quite as toxic, irritating, or ecologically & genetically destructive and can be utilized at lower doses if the product is not intended to sit on a shelf for multiple years (another reason why buying handmade is best). Quickly read up on preservatives and find the ones you feel best about putting on to your skin, and into the environment.

As you're checking the ingredients on your bottles, here are some questions to ask yourself:

*Are they synthetic? How toxic (or on the contrary .... non-disruptive) to my body and the environment are they?

*In the long run is this really going to benefit my skin, or will it dry it out? Am I just going to use more and more of the product to compensate for the chemicals long-term affects to my skin?

* If you are vegan, do your research - some of these ingredients may be animal derivatives (usually animal fats are cheaper than vegetable, so chances are the natural bi-products that are included (ex: glycerin, stearates) are animal derivatives.

__________________________________________________________

((( A note to please keep in mind - "Natural" doesn't always mean 'safe for use'. There are some natural ingredients, when even at low doses, are not suitable for skin use. Even if your products SAY natural, make sure the ingredients are safe at the levels at which they're used. When in doubt - ask !! )))

Fall Harvest Soap - Coming Soon

A gorgeous blend of spicy clove, anise, and citrus scents - this natural soap is a great unisex scent! Weighing in at a massive 10-12 oz, it will last you all season long!

Due to be ready on October 24th. Please check the shop for current natural soap and bath & body selections.

Fan Sale - Sept 29&30 : 35 % OFF EVERYTHING!

Check out Krug's Eco-Logic's HUGE Fan Sale ! 35 % OFF EVERYTHING. I want to make new soaps, but desperately need the space. I'm clearing house!

Today and Tomorrow ONLY !

Use Code: 42e2de

Today's Special - Lavender Rose - 20% OFF

Every Day - Krug's Eco-Logic will be running a Special on a specific product.

Today's Special is Lavender Rose Natural Soap - made with a 100% natural Rose Absolute Blend and 100% Natural French Lavender Essential Oil, you'll feel like a princess, even if it's only for a few short minutes! Today Only - you are able to purchase this fabulous HUGE 10-12 oz bar of soap at 20% OFF

Please see the shop: www.krugsecologic.com to purchase.

Full Ingredient List: Glycine Soja (soybean oil), Aqua (water), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Gossypium Herbaceyum (cotton) Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Essential Oil Blend (scent), Ultramarine Pink Iron Oxide (color), Purple Iron Oxide (color), Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel